Training Regimen

Performance Principles for Mike Haugen
Mountaineering-Specific Training
The purest form of training for any activity is the activity itself.  To be effective, a training program must reproduce the functional movements and metabolic demands of the sport being trained for.  Sport-specific training challenges athletes’ to perform specific movements and patterns safely, efficiently and subconsciously; develops the appropriate energy systems; and promotes muscular adaptations that lead to superior sport performance. Mike is a busy teacher, so at every opportunity he is; ski mountaineering, ice climbing and rock climbing. When those opportunities are not possible due to time constraints, job responsibilities etc; – running, cycling and ground-based circuit training supplements his demands for the sport of mountaineering.

Multiple Joint Movements
No single body part works in isolation during mountaineering.  The body works synergistically (with muscles, joints and proprioceptors all working in an integrated fashion) to produce complex movements.  Running, skiing, mountaineering and ice climbing all require multiple joint actions timed in the proper neuromuscular recruitment pattern.  Therefore, integrated movements should be trained, not individual muscles, if the goal is to maximize function and performance.

Multiple Plane Movements
Movement in mountaineering occurs in three planes: linear (forward-backward), transverse (up-down) and sagittal (side-to-side), most often with a heavy pack.  Training should incorporate exercises and movement patterns that develop efficiency in each plane.  Only free weights allow movement in these three planes simultaneously.  Machines isolate muscles and work single joints in single planes of movement and spare the core of functioning in an athletic manner.  Movement training should emphasize agility, strength, and power with the addition of core tension to properly mimic functional movements of a mountaineer.

Ground-Based Movements
Most sport skills are initiated by applying force with the feet against the ground.  The more force the mountaineer can apply against the ground, the greater efficiency they will have at each step, and the more effective they will be in ascension.  Thus, lifting exercises and conditioning drills should be chosen which enhance this ability.  The single-leg squat and the Olympic movements (hang clean, hang snatch, push jerk) are recognized as the best movements for increasing force output. 

Nutrition and Recovery
No training program can be successful without a commitment to good nutrition and rest.  Quality macronutrients (protein, fats and carbohydrates) are needed to replace lost energy and repair damaged tissue in the form of lean meats, fruits and vegetables and goods fats like nuts, seeds, olives or avocados. Usually a decrease in performance can be traced to a poor diet and/or a lack of sleep.  Before, during and after exercise athletes must understand what needs to be done nutritionally.  Mike cannot afford to put rich sauces, condiments, or sugary additions to his meals that will add unwanted body fat and therefore slow him down. Getting enough sleep must also be a priority.  The body cannot recover between workouts and overtraining becomes a concern when sleep is compromised.

Character
To be the best mountaineer you can be requires more than raw talent, a sound training program and good nutrition.  A foundation that includes resolve, discipline, making good decisions, perseverance and selflessness is essential for true success.  These attributes must be emphasized, developed and rewarded during training. Mike has developed this attribute through years of guiding on Mt. Rainier, Mt. McKinley and other demanding peaks.