Jargon Buster - Commonly Used Mountaineering Terms
Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS): a complex medical condition resulting from changes in altitude, characterized by symptoms such as dizziness, confusion, fatigue, headache, and shortness of breath.
Alpine Start: climbing a very early start for a climb, usually before sunrise, made in order to have the benefit of firm snow conditions or to utilize daylight
Avalanche: a rapid downhill flow of a large mass of snow or ice dislodged from a mountainside or the top of a precipice, or a similar fall of rocks and earth
Belay: climbing to fasten or control the rope to which a climber is attached by wrapping it around or through a metal device or another person
Bergschrund: a crevasse formed at the head of a glacier
Bivouac: a short, unplanned overnight stay, often with minimum equipment
Carabiner: an oblong metal ring with an openable spring-hinged side, used in rock and mountain climbing for such purposes as clipping a freely running rope to an anchor
Col: a low point in a ridge of mountains, often forming a pass between two peaks
Cornice: mountaineering an overhanging mass of snow or ice formed by wind action
Couloir: a broad mountain gully, especially one prone to avalanches
Crampons: a set of metal spikes that hook onto mountaineering boots and are used for ice climbing or glacier trekking
Crevasse: a deep crack in the ice of a glacier
Diamox (Acetazolamide): a drug used for the prevention and treatment of altitude sickness
French Technique: also known as Flat-Footing, it is an efficient means of climbing moderate to steep snow and ice where the feet are positioned across the hill; this technique minimizes the strain on leg muscles
Frostbite: damage to body extremities caused by prolonged exposure to freezing conditions, characterized by numbness, tissue death, and gangrene
Glacier: a large body of continuously accumulating ice and compacted snow, formed in mountain valleys or at the poles, that deforms under its own weight and slowly moves
Glissade: a controlled slide down a snowy slope made without skis by somebody in a standing or crouching position
High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE): a serious medical condition resulting from the accumulation of fluid in the lungs, caused by the lower barometric pressure and decreased oxygen levels that exist at high altitude
High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE): a serious medical condition caused by a buildup of fluid in the tissue around the brain at high altitude
Hypothermia: dangerously low body temperature caused by prolonged exposure to cold
Icefall: a face of a glacier on which the gradient is so steep that the ice breaks up into a jumble of blocks
Jumar (ascender): a clip or clamp used in rock climbing or ice climbing that runs freely up a slack rope but tightens around the rope in response to weight applied from below
Rappel: to descend a steep slope or vertical face using a rope that is secured at the top and passed through a rappel device
Scree: an accumulation of rock debris at the base of a cliff, hill, or mountain slope, often forming a heap
Self Arrest: stopping a fall on snow or ice by using an ice axe and crampons
Serac: a ridge, pinnacle, or block of ice in the crevasses or slope of a glacier
Sherpa: a member of a people originally from Tibet who live on the southern Himalayan slopes in Nepal and Sikkim (India). Sherpas are noted for their mountaineering skills
Sirdar: Head Sherpa on an expedition
Verglas: a thin coating of ice found on rock or exposed ground |